Inspiring is the word that springs to mind. It's never too late to chase your fantasies, especially if they involve anything to do with surfing. Sasha Golyanova has done just that and then she got hooked on the best thing in life, bobbing around in the water waiting for lumps of moving water to spin towards her.
We all know how this feels, as surfer,s but often it is just a rare treat to hear and see the words coming from anothers lips. The emphasis, of course is on how this 'thing we do' can change your focus and direction. Go get some (waves).