What makes a good surf?
Interestingly enough sometimes the 'perfect sessions' do not leave me the most stoked but more with the feeling of wanting or needing more. Its' hard to walk away from clean lines and I find I have the feeling of when I have left a job half done and that I am already lining up my next surf mentally.
I have been on the search for a while now about what makes the perfect session hoping to re-create more. I have discovered it is not about perfect conditions, my wave count, the amount of people in the water or whats going on in my life, having the right board helps but thats not it.
I dismissed the thought and put it down to me overthinking things having not found the answer. Then I watched this movie and it turns out Ryan Burch can sum it up quite nicely.
Ryan Burch, what makes the perfect session?