The Lost Art of Having Fun

If you’ve ever had to share a crowded line up with an embittered former semi pro, of which my home town has its fair share, one of the fundamental  (and some what inconvenient) truths of surfing you’ve probably had to confront is that, ‘’The best surfer is not necessarily the one having the most fun. ‘’ Perhaps recently you visited the spot you used to surf as a kid, and in a nostalgic throwback you remember how amazing it was being a grommet?

You were young and cool once. You didn’t really care all that much if you totally hacked that cutback, and neither did anyone else for that matter. Even if the waves sucked you still surfed and you probably loved every moment of it; probably ‘caus it beat sitting in a classroom. Your bootleg VHS tapes of Billabong’s Filthy Habits and Lost’s 5'5" X 19 1/4" were chewed to bits on account of how many times they had been rewound and slomo’d.

Goodness, but how old and stiff you’ve become.

Introducing Ozzie Wright, not that he really needs any introductions. With Ozzie I concede it's very much a love or hate thing. Perhaps not the greatest surfer technically speaking, (nor the greatest musician if you’ve ever been unfortunate enough to listen to ‘The Goons of Doom’, his very garage, very punk rock-band) but there is certainly something very appealing about watching him shred in somewhat average waves on that ridiculous twinfin… That throwaway punt round the 2:20 mark should raise a few eyebrows no? And that layback he has on him? Very Disco.

One thing is for sure; Ozzie is definitely having more fun than you. His teeth are also straighter than yours.