Varberg is the Swedish Surf Capital

The phone buzzes like maniac – notifications from Messenger, WhatsApp and texts: “Surf’s up on Friday, who's into it?” The inevitable 'but', “if the forecast doesn’t change”. I am a cold-water surfer from Sweden and this is my waiting game…

Twenty years ago I was working at a local newspaper in Gothenburg, in the Swedish West Coast. My climbing friend Magnus told me he was going surfing one freezing cold, snowy January weekend. I thought he was nuts and asked him if it was ok that I followed him and made a feature for the newspaper. Back then the wetsuits were technically not so good, and the surfers had to endure a greater cold. I felt so cold just taking the pictures on that day, and I told to myself I would never be that stupid, not me, never ever…

Well, here a I am. Some years ago I got a position as copy-writer at the communications agency Treativ in Varberg, a career move that would have a big impact in my life, and in the life of the people around me. Thats when, surfing truely infected me. On a cold October day, Markus from Surfers surf shop lent me a longboard and a wetsuit and coaxed me into the black waters of Kåsa in full storm. Since then I have been chasing the stoke. But I don’t blame Markus, I blame Varberg.

Varberg is a very special coastal town fashioned by the harsh environment of the wind whipped Swedish west coast. The people here have a special relationship with the ocean. They are humble and gentle people that don’t rush things but they are tough and don’t succumb easily either. Originally a fisherman’s village, the Varberg of today has evolved into a town of cultural and business but still holds onto its special relationship with the sea. In midwinter, you’ll find people taking a bath in the freezing cold water, just a good way to start the day, they will explain.

When the wind blows from the west and it reaches speeds of 10 meters per seconds or above, Varberg transforms into a different place. A gathering point for surfers, no matter if it’s wave surf, windsurf or kite. We share the lineup in search for the perfect feeling, defying the storm. Varberg is without a doubt the capital of surfing in Sweden and I’m lucky to work here and to have bosses that understand that surfing is (for surfers) a bare necessity of life. Wind swells know nothing about weekends or working hours, they offer you a surfing window and you have to go for it, or miss it...

There are three main spots in Varberg: Kåsa, Apelviken and Läjet. Your favourite depends on what you ride. As a longboarder I love Läjet. Some may argue that wind swell waves are choppy and hard to paddle, but when you crack the code you will have so much fun. Just imagine to be out in the water, the storm rushes around and the waves are crazy. The black water is cold and the lineup is made of your surfing buddies. You feel so alive it’s hard to explain. Of course, it’s really nice to have a 14 seconds period, sunshine, boardshorts and palm trees. But cold-water surfing in the storm adds a new dimension. Läjet on a good day offers nice rolling waves for long rides. The perfect board for Läjet is a classic nose rider maybe 9,4 ft and lots of volume. The wind waves don’t have too much punch and the smaller the wave the harder you will need to paddle. If the wind is really strong from south west you can get some good size waves here, those days you can see some youngsters on shortboards, some fish boards and a lot of midlengths.

Kåsa is the opposite of Läjet, a hollow wave with punch that closes fast. You have to be on your toes and turn fast and smooth. The surroundings in Kåsa are amazing and the stormy weather creates a very special atmosphere in the lineup. Here you will find some of the best surfers on the west coast throwing airs and cutbacks. On more quiet days, with wind speeds of around 10 meters per second, you can also have a longboard session here, jumping into the water from the pier on the south end of the beach and catching some nice lefts. But with harder winds Kåsa gets tougher and is recommended for advanced surfers.

Apelviken is the epicenter of the surfer community in Varberg. The open bay with a long, beautiful sand beach will host surfers of all categories and levels. The sky fills up with colorful kites and windsurfers will take off on the wave ramps to throw air maneuvers that takes your breath away. For wave surfers there’s a few different spots. In front of Surfer’s Center it’s a perfect place for beginners, the shallow beach break offers lots of nice white water to learn how a board works. If the wind is hard and from the south, Solviken at the North point of the bay, offers great rolling longboard waves. On a west wind swell, most of the wave surfers will gather outside John’s Place for a longboard session. More than only surfing, Apelviken is the spot in Sweden that offers the best Aloha feeling. With plenty of restaurants along the beach that offer great food and good vibes. At Surfer’s Center you can rent gear, buy some wax, have a beer at Surfer’s Saloon or chill at the miniramp.

When the phone buzzes and the party is on the way to Varberg, you just forget everything about work, cold weather or the waiting game between the swells. All those days of looking at the forecast and hoping for some winds from the west. When the swell finally delivers and you meet all your surfing buddies at the stone pier of Läjet, well, then life is good. A feeling we all know...

Black Waters

Mikael Pilstrand has established himself as one of the best ski and surf photographers in Sweden. Despite of have been travelling around the world shooting pics of great surfing spots and snow covered mountains, he still loves documenting the special feeling at his home break Varberg. In the book Svartvatten (Black waters) he portraits some of the people that make the surf scene in the Swedish West Coast to what it is, a meeting place for passionate souls.

The pictures in this feature are a small sample of Mikael’s work .