Have you been to Peniche for a surf trip? OK, so you might have surfed some good waves, but with a crowd as long as the queue for Disney World? I want to talk about a way to surf in Peniche but not in Peniche, and without a dozen world tour wannabes dropping in.
Let's catch you up quickly. For those unfamiliar with the area, Baleal is a large horseshoe-shaped bay that offers a variety of different waves on the same swell and wind directions. Basically you can normally find a soft wave that''s awesome for beginners there. If you move to the south side of the peninsula you can find the famous (Rip Curl Pro Peniche) break of Supertubos which is ridiculously good but crowded. That is where the information of the average holidaymaker might end. As is the case with many surf spots of fame, the crowds move in, that is the way of things and that’s cool.
Now let's talk about having the best surf holiday since sliced bread. Cei and Niki have been in the Peniche area for a while now, long enough to see the rise and rise of Peniche as a surf destination. They had a vision so simple, but so brilliant that it will suit any wave addict down to the ground. Cei has agreed to spend some time telling us more about the best way to get the best waves and what surfing means to him.
SB: Thanks for sparing us the time Cei. Can you tell us where your place is and exactly why I would want to stay there?
Cei: We are about 10 mins south of Peniche in a little village called Sao Bernardino, which is a super cool little local village with a beautiful beach and a variety of lesser known surf spots. Reefs, points and slabs are all to be found locally with a little bit of investigation or a nudge from me. (laughs)
SB: Being that close to a variety of uncrowded and off-the-map quality breaks don't you want to keep the secret to yourself?
Cei: The thing is, there are so many waves in the area, that it really is pretty easy to find uncrowded waves most of the time. We have everything here; reefs, points, beaches and anything in between. A lot of the lesser known waves have been revealed in the last few years, I mean.... a lot of surfers come to Peniche now and information spreads so quickly on the web.
Consolação, which is 2km from Silvercoast Apartments and is probably the wave I surf most, but I didn’t even know of it when I moved here. I only knew it has a spot forecast on MSW. I suppose I am trying to say that the concept of secret type spots is not really possible in areas like this. However, knowing a spot is there and getting it when its good, are different things. Local knowledge, tides, swell direction, how to avoid the local crowd etc. These are the things that come into play. The things that make the Peniche area special will always stay the same, when conditions are ideal... ie Wnw swell and east winds, there are 20 spots with in a 15 min drive that could be firing. Obviously Supers, like any world class wave will be crowded, but numerous other spots, most of which are far more accessible to the average surfer, will also be cooking. The other thing is that a lot of people consider Peniche to be crowded, what they don’t realize is this crowd is pretty concentrated around Baleal and the surf camps. In the summer there are literally 100's of learners here, but concentrated in an area that the more experienced surfer, probably isn't going to want to surf anyway.
SB: I have found the Portuguese to be warm and friendly in the water. Do you ever encounter any localism?
Cei: The Portuguese are fantastic people, I love it here and the people are a big reason for that. In the water I would say that generally still applies. I haven’t travelled anywhere surfing where there wasn’t some degree of localism, so you do see it, particularly at Supers, but try paddling out at Pipe or Trestles or at the Gold Coast and see what happens, you will get a lot more waves here. By their nature guys have a bit too much ego and surfers are no different, the kind of idiots who are a problem in the water are the same people who want to fight you in a bar or cut you up when you are driving. Unfortunately that’s life and the world we live in.
SB: Your place looks amazing, how much is it to stay here and when are you open for business?
Cei: Thanks James. Eight years of hard work and passion have gone into making it a great place for people to stay. It really is a constantly evolving project as we try and improve a little something each year. We are open for business all year round and prices start at 35 euros per night in the winter months up to 90 in July and August. The apartments all sleep 4 comfortably so in the winter it can be less than 10 euros per person per night.
SB: If I didn't want to bring my own board can I rent one nearby?
Cei: If you travel without a board, I keep a selection on site for guests to rent, if I don’t have something to your taste I have a network of friends who are in the industry that will probably have some thing. You then also have a huge choice in Baleal; shops, surf schools etc etc. I also have a pretty extensive selection of wetsuits, boots, gloves, fins, boogie boards and I always keep a few sets of soft roof racks on site.
SB: How does the whole place change when the World Tour comes to town?
Cei: The obvious answer is that it gets pretty busy around here. In a good way, it's pretty fun, a lot of parties in Peniche and Baleal, the atmosphere is good. The time of year is pretty cool as well. The weather and the waves are always excellent in October. The long summer season is over, so people are pretty relaxed and ready to enjoy themselves. I particularly enjoy the days when the contest is running, the crowd at Supers is probably the biggest and most vocal on the tour, and it does provide a great chance to get some uncrowded waves at the other lesser known spots... everyone else is at the contest.
SB: Can you remember you first surfboard? Have you still got it?
Cei: I can... like it was yesterday. It was given to me by a great family friend Alex Everett. It was a 5´8 kneeboard. Alex was a kneeboarder from Hawaii who lived down in Mousehole in Cornwall, where I am from. I was 13 and had been learning to surf on a 6´6 popout from Bilbo2000 in Newquay, that a friend had lent to me. He need it back and I was boardless. I was surf bonkers at this point and didn’t have the money for a board. I used to babysit for Alex´s kids and told him about my plight one night, being the super cool dude that he was, he took me down to the garage and picked out this yellowed fat thing and handed it too me. It was actually one of the most fun boards I have ever surfed. God bless him.
SB: If you could give any advice to yourself as a 16 year old grom what would it be?
Cei: Surf more, stay in school, don’t do too many drugs. Travel more. Enjoy your surfing, don’t focus on what you can't do, there’s always a better guy in the water, forget him. Enjoy your waves and what they give you.
SB: Thanks a lot for your time Cei and to all those reading, you are welcome. It is not often that you meet people who are as dedicated to making sure you have a good time on holiday as Cei & Niki. If you want waves and a relaxing time whist getting to see the 'real Peniche' area then this is the spot for you. Get away from the crowds and ride some decent waves, true words, look no further.