We all have opinions on what constitutes a big wave. We measure and describe the size of waves differently to the extent that two people looking at the exact same wave can often see it in two completely different ways. I think that two specific things play a role in this: experience and mindset.
Obviously experienced and unexperienced surfers will see waves differently. Understanding and reading waves goes hand in hand with one’s level of experience (aka time spent in and around the water). What’s interesting is that people with similar levels of experience can also see waves differently, and that comes down to mindset.
Greg Long speaks here about surfing big waves, challenging himself and overcoming fear, something which he points out we create in our own minds. I’ve long been terrified by waves above double overhead, and it’s inspiring to hear his thoughts on this. Using Headspace over the last couple of months has helped me learn about controlling my own mind better, and I’m curious to see how that will translate in heavier-than-usual waters this winter. Enjoy.
greg