Dylan Longbottom on Code Red and Point Break 2

When you get a chance to ask a proper legend some questions, what do you do? I'll tell what you definitely don’t do is procrastinate as I have. The very tangible issue I faced was the same I stumbled on when writing a ‘best man speech’ for my brother's wedding. There is too much material, too many questions, I mean, where to commence, at the point I guess which is usually described as the beginning.

One of the many things I wanted to ask Dylan Longbottom was anything he could tell me about having his name linked to the best surf movie of all time (and I won’t hear a word said against it), Point Break. Also about its death which came as a result of the ‘sequel’ in which Dylan's boards and big wave skills were featured.

Let's clarify:

Dylan Longbottom skills = good

Dylan Longbottom surfboard = good

Point Break - the film (with Pwayze and Keeves) = good

Point Break - the recent film in which Dylan's boards and skills are featured = I would rather smash myself in the face with a wet packet of shit than go even within a one mile radius of again. (in other words = bad)

The stunts on the other hand are something to behold and on every angle from that aspect, this has to have been a ground breaking movie. From an acting, story-line and to link it the original, well, let's just say we all make mistakes.

SB: Thanks for sparing the time Dylan. You have clearly had ‘the wave of your life’ on a surfboard that you made yourself. You make surfboards for a living and you have the whole thing featured in a Hollywood movie. Happy days right?

Dylan: Yes, for me it was the experience to work onset in a Hollywood movie and especially being the Point Break remake which I loved as a kid, kind of couldn’t believe it when they called me up as the leading actor's main stuntman for surfing and also to be asked to make all the boards for the movie was special as well.

SB: How about your 'headspace' at the moment Dylan?  Where can you go ‘achievement-wise’ after that wave?

Dylan: Well, I have been around for a while and pinch myself sometimes with some of the waves and things I have done in life so I am very satisfied and feel like I've accomplished more than I ever dreamed of, so for me now it's all about making the perfect board for all my customers, from small wave boards to the biggest (paddle and tow), and now, just getting back from Portugal, I really want to surf Nazare big and experience that.

SB: How does it make you feel when you look back on that first day of filming for Point Break? It looks terrifying to us mortals.

Dylan: It's crazy I remember the afternoon before the big day. We had 300 crew there and the meeting was about it's going to be 20 to 30 feet epic Teahupo'o, and we are shutting the line up down, and Ramiana will tow Dylan all day and Laird will tow Laurie, and they wanted to do the 2 of us on 1 wave stunt, it was mind boggling but also exciting and spewing. Laurie got heavily injured early the next day but the rest is history, even though it the film didn’t stand up to its original, it was an amazing experience and I loved doing it.

SB: Where can you go from there? How do you better that?

Dylan: Not sure, and for me it's all about my family now and raising my children and focusing on my surfboard business, but I won't mind if another stunt job comes up or they ask me to make boards for another surf film.

SB: How did the whole Point Break thing come about?

Dylan: They scripted a scene with Bodhi being on a wave at massive Teahupo'o and Utah drops in and then I cross over and had to look back and say 'follow my line' (which I did and it was crazy) and so they looked for surfers who matched the actors' appearance and who were specialists at Teahupo'o. Fortunately enough I matched Bodhi and my partner Laurie Towner matched Utah and I got a call from a mate in media.

SB: Is there a secret to staying calm if you take a monster lot of water on the head at Teahupo'o

Dylan: Not really, just to not freak out and be strong enough physically, mentally and I guess emotionally, as well and having a lot of experience out there helped me.

SB: Your surfboards look pretty amazing, do you shape many tow boards? Have you seen the demand in big wave equipment rise recently?

Dylan: Thanks. and yes I have been doing a lot for both paddle and tow for all the best chargers in the world. I guess they have witnessed me put my boards to the test as a shaper and trust in my equipment more than the guys that don’t test, and yes there a lot more big wave riders out there these days which is good I reckon, and it's good for me as it's all still new as we are pushing the limits harder each year.

SB: How would you feel about Big Wave Surfing being made an Olympic sport?

Dylan: Hmm not sure about that, I think its very unique and should stay that way.

SB: Your boards look bewilderingly good. Can you tell me more about the Gypsy? How long would I have to wait and can I get one in Portugal?

Dylan: The Gypsy model is my retro hybrid kind of board with old school curves, wider nose for paddling and single flyer pin tail which can be used as a single fin, thrusters, quad or 2+1 set up, and I am now making boards in Portugal at the ORG factory in Lisbon where I have just been and loved the place and worked with the best crew there. I will be coming over every 6 months to do a shaping stint there.

SB: Where do you stand on the use of CNC machines, Epoxy resinis & EPS foam in surfboard construction?

Dylan: I like to design and cut on both the APS and AKU machines and finish them off personally from there, they are great and they allow us to get very creative. I still love the PU over epoxy but like riding the epoxy boards when the waves are really small and have no power.

SB: Where is HQ for you these days and why?

Dylan: I am kind of like a gypsy, hence the name of that model, Bali has been my base for last 5 years and I travel back to Aust each month to shape, but now I am flipping that and also traveling to Europe, Japan and America now to shape as well.

SB: If you could give your 18 year old self some advice, what would it be?

Dylan: Obviously you would want to change all the dumb immature things you have ever done, but I think everything you do defines who you are, and you have to learn from your mistakes to grow.

SB: Having no experience of tow in super heavy waves apart from talking to folk and watching heavy wipe-outs it really is a special treat to be able to get some insight into the head-space from a man who 'charges'. I think there a few guys making boards for paddle and tow big waves and Dylan has the advantage of being both shaper and surfer in this respect, a great place to start.

After hearing that Dylan will be shaping just down the road from Surf Bunker HQ in Portugal, we will make the effort to meet up next time he is over and maybe just maybe watch him charge the ultimate. Nazare.

As for the movie, take away the name, the story-line and the acting and it's actually very very good.