Why are there are so many air-reverse, up-and-comers, but can't lay rail for shit groms out there at the moment. It is really noticeable, and maybe part of the reason for this devolution is that surf movies went through a very bad time when they actually ignored the barrel and the rail! Yes, that’s right, the two foundations of surfing... tossed out of a moving train like last year's board shorts! If you happened to be at that tender age of trusting the surf media when this gross error happened then perhaps you learnt to stick a reverse before even bothering with a turn. You are forgiven.
This is not a rant about youngsters but just the opposite, perhaps we are out of those times and into appreciating all aspects of our glorious sport/hobby. Check out this clip below for a nice all round bit of fun and a young lad, Dane Zaun who can turn and get barrelled as well as some impressive above the lip action.
Dane Zaun has got his head screwed on for a young lad, no two ways about it. Dane had been in a competition jersey since the age of 8 until he decided to make the move to being a free surfer at the age of 20. He asks the question, just because you are making heats in competitions, does that mean you are progressing as a surfer? Sure, that is a can of worms best left unopened by me but let's see what Dane has to say about it.
Well, there we have it, turns out I do want to be a free surfer, just a shame I am 20 years too late.
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