So you’ve checked the surf forecast for the next few days, and what’s this, the conditions look favourable at the reef/point/beach you like to surf. So you probably check with few mates and make a plan to head there and c…
I hate to say I told you so but I did. Watch out for Owen Wright, the dark horse, I said. Well the time to collect my winnings is now. If I was a betting man. Which I am not. Owen Wright made history last night by not onl…
Dare to stray from the Surfer’s path? My bus pulled away, a thick layer of Ochre coloured dust hissed upward from the ground, my mucus membranes had turned a deep reddy-orange, the sun was low above the desert, the dusky …
What do you think about when you’re waiting for a wave? Your last wave? Or the next wave? Maybe the slightly omnipresent guy next to you in the line up, how much longer you can spend being in the ocean? If it’s a long wai…
Are the top 34 men and top 17 women of the World Surf League are just trying to push themselves too much? At the last count, the number of injured surfers on tour is at an all time high. Michel Bourez – injured – free sur…
The sound of heavy breathing in my head, an overused joint in my neck cracks as I turn my head. I swallow before a duck dive and the over-amplification of anything interior resonates in my mind. This is how I felt the fir…
How many people do you know who are just built to contribute? In ‘normal’ life (non surfing), people who are interested in bettering themselves in some way but not necessarily looking for reward? I think we all know peopl…
Where I grew up in the sprawling lands of suburbia, anything that was not from there was enticing. The sea. The mountains. Great wide open spaces. And anything to do with these natural places was super attractive. Sailing…
Surfing is a sport that spawns travel even for those of us who are lucky enough to live near pumping waves. We endure the ever enticing social media pictures and movies that get the old gray cells pointing toward a flight…
Sitting there waiting for waves is something that we all do as surfers. Sometimes we wait a while for the right wave, sometimes there is a pecking order and we wait our turn and sometimes you have the magic combination of…
Undeniably one of the best logs I have ever ridden. It was only a couple of waves, I managed to swap boards with this guy I was surfing with in Capbreton and you know when you know, right? Have you ever heard of the phras…
Manila is hot, dark and loud as hell. Jeepney buses crammed full of people. Traffic jams at 11pm. It’s everything you probably don’t want your holiday in the Philippines to be. Everyone is smiling, strangely courteous and…
It has been about 2 weeks since the WSL announced that Shane Dorian had won the XXL nominations… AGAIN! I feel that enough time has passed that I can talk about this without getting all fiery around the collar. There are …
One of the greatest rewards of being a surfer is having the opportunity on a casual, almost daily basis, to be surrounded by marine life in their natural habitat. Surfers as a whole are truly connected to nature more than…
We like to think about our continued existence on the planet as a species, so we will need to look after mother earth. That’s a fact. None should be more important to us sea going mortals than the ocean and factors that e…
Natural disasters are devastating, people get hurt, killed and swept out to sea. What happened on the 17th May in Rio de Janeiro was exactly that. It began as a sea breeze that seemed to get stronger without anyone notici…
There’s few things more glorious to watch in surfing than a failed rock jump, or “rock off” in the biz. By now I hope you’ve seen the footage of some guy getting his hopes and dreams dashed in front of, what I can only ho…
If you would have asked me a year ago where I thought I’d be, or what I thought I’d be doing right now, the picture I would have painted for you would have looked quite different than that of my current reality. It would …
If you would have asked me a year ago where I thought I’d be, or what I thought I’d be doing right now, the picture I would have painted for you would have looked quite different than that of my current reality. It would …
Who says dreams can’t come true? A while ago all of us at Surf Bunker drew up a list of five people we would most like to interview in the world. We fired some emails out there and wouldn’t you know it, people responded. …