This little video I can watch again and again. Not just because Sal has a cool ‘story voice’ but because what he is saying comes from a place of experience. Prejudice of any kind in our
I have heard no one put this all together in words of eloquence such as Sal, and it helps to highlight the many sorts of prejudice, from the contempt directed to beginners, racial / gender prejudice and of course the good old ‘locals rule’ thing. We all have different views on this, I know, but mine remain aligned with Sal’s.
We are all surfers and we do it for one reason. A selfish need to feel the greatest joy possible, surfing, but with that has to
Next time you paddle out, give a wave to someone and see what happens. If everyone did this, my bet is the world would be a better place for swell junkies like us everywhere.
I am now off my ‘soapbox’.